Standing room only

Started to prep the block today. Here's the block as I picked it up from the machine shop. Covered in 2 layers of protective plastic and parcel tape.


Basically, the below is the plan. These are all POR-15 products. The Marine Clean (green label) is an industrial strength degreaser, which needs to be diluted 1:1 and sprayed on, brushed in and then rinsed off. It's water soluble, so it's easy enough. Then the Prep and Ready (blue label), which is a rust converter and stabiliser. It's supposed to help the next coat adhere. Again, it's spray on, keep wet by more spraying for 30 mins, and then dry back off. The result is that you end up masking and taking off, masking and taking off.



Here's the block, upside-down with the bores and bottom end masked up ready for the spraying of the degreaser/prep.



Another view:



The block came with a base coat of satin black. I've been scrubbing at this to see if it will come off. It won't.
From the top. Again masked up like the gimp:



Unmasked from bottom:



Unmasked from top:



Down the bores shot:



Big aren't they?
Anyway that's it. The problem with water based products is that machined surfaces and water are not good. The surfaces rust just as soon as there's a hint of water. So this means all water needs to be wiped off, and then WD40 applied to keep the rust at bay. Trouble is then that you need to keep the WD40 off the recently degreased and prepped outside of the block, otherwise all that effort in prepping is wasted! Paint next weekend!

Back in the real world...

Today I went to get the Ford small block V8 block back from the machinists. To remind ourselves, I'm building a 347 cubic inch engine using a 302 small block Ford V8 as a base unit. The kit that I have actually builds a 348 cu in engine, as mine is bored +40thou. This gives a 5.7litre capacity. The engine has been at a local machinists (Modus Engine Services - good bunch of guys) for the last 7 months. This really isn't anyone's fault, it's just the way things turned out. I was in no rush anyway. During that time, I'd bought the camshaft, the crank, the rods, the pistons, the main bearings, the rod bearings, the cam bearings, the core plug kit and the piston rings.

So, now the block is back (no photos - everything is wrapped in plastic to keep it really clean for the build). The work that has been done is:

   * Hot pressure test block (looking for cracks) - passed!

   * Strip all core plugs, oil plugs.

   * Hot wash, chemical dip, and hot wash again.

   * Refit core plugs, fit screw in oil plugs to replace press in versions

   * Prep all mating surfaces and housings

   * Hone bores to piston size

   * Fit new cam bearings

   * Machine block for conversion to hydraulic roller cam

   * Dummy build short motor to check clearances and piston to deck measure

   * Skim decks so pistons level with tops of bore

   * Relieve block to clearance for long-throw crank

   * Dummy build again for final checks, and strip back down.

As you can see, I've (they've!) been quite thorough on the prep for the build. In my opinion, it's folly to spend a shedload on hi-perf bits and bobs and then not giving a thought for the prep of the block. It wasn't cheap, mind you. The machining cost as much as most of the bits I've bought so far added together!

Goodwood Festival of Speed 2012 - Pt.4

Back in the paddock:


BRM v16 - 1.5 litres, supercharged, 600hp:








Promoting Pink Floyd's "The Wall":




















Owned by the Queen:















You want heritage?

Goodwood Festival of Speed 2012 - Pt.3

Because my camera is so crap at the moving stuff, the best phots are of the still things. These cars still ran up the hill (search on YouTube), but getting up close in the paddock is still very cool.

Pikes Peak Toyota:

Renee Anoux:


Alain Prost






D-Type cockpit:




The sculpture in front of Goodwood House was paying homage to Lotus Cars this year:




Got a sneak preview of a couple of new cars:



Motorcyle stunt show pics: