Little comment here. The majority of people who own/drive TVRs will tell you that one of the attractive things about them is their Britishness. I'm no different, but I see the Britishness not as the components of the car, but at a much higher level - it's about the open top, 2 seats, front engine, rear wheel drive combination. Also, it's about the car being designed as a convertible 2 seater, not some crap saloon or GT with the top lopped off. It's a sports car. Not a supercar, not a GT, nothing in the middle, a sports car. 2 seats, no roof. It's in a long line of sports cars to come from Britain - ACs, MGs, Triumphs, Sunbeams, Austin Healeys, Lotuses, Morgans etc.
Now, in this, what separates me from some of the more jingoistic TVR owners is that I can see that my TVR is not all that British from a 'through and through' perspective. The engine, for example, designed by Buick before GM bought them. Granted, a massive amount of development has gone into it since the original all alloy 215ci V8 was conceived for the 1961 model year (which meant its roots are in the late 1950's), but essentially, it's an American V8. The gearbox that sits behind the V8 is made by Borg Warner, another American company. I think BTR (who make the diff) are Australian, but not certain so jury's out on that one. However, the bulk of the rest of the running gear is Ford, another American company. Now, I will concede that lots of the Ford bits that made it onto the various TVR models were made in Dagenham, Essex, UK, but Ford is an American company, simple as that. So basically, wherever you look in the TVR range going back to Wedges, S cars, Tamsins (I guess starting at pre-AJP engined cars), the backbone of what makes the car move/roll has been American. Clearly there are bits of the car that are TVR unique, but they are pretty few and far between. And there are bits of the car that are British e.g. most things Lucas, or with a Land Rover sticker on them (back when Land Rover wasn't Indian). There are also bits that are from other US manufacturers - the column switchgear on my car, for example is from some Vauxhall or other (Vauxhall being part of GM now).
In my view this mish mash of foreign and British componentry does not make the car any less 'British'. It's the format, not the running gear. It's the ethos, not the engine. It's where the product was conceived, put together and sold that counts overall for me. In much the same way that a Sunbeam Tiger is a British Sports car, my TVR is a British Sports Car.
Saturday, 30 April 2011
Oily git...
Changed the oil in the Chim yesterday. Reading the 'bible' it has dire warnings about the oil pump emptying and needing to be primed. The symptom of this is a zero oil pressure reading on the gauge, which is a pretty terminal state for engines. So with some trepidation I broke out the oil filter that I'd got from Opie Oils and got to work. The sump plug js a 1 1/8th size, which predictably I didn't have, so had to use the bodger's favourite adjustable spanner (got the correct one on order off the 'bay now) to get the plug out. Once out, the oil whooshed out into my handy machine mart oil catcher jobbie. While it was doing that I got on with the scary bit. On the Rover V8, the oil pump needs to at least have some oil in it if it is to work properly. The oil filter makes sure of this under most circumstances, but if you take the filter off and allow the oil to completely drain from the pump, then the oil pump has to come off to get primed. Bummer. So the idea is to fill the oil filter completely (or as completely as possible, bearing in mind that it's canted forward and therefore you can't brim it) and whip the old filter off and spin the new one on before the oil pump realises what you're doing and spews its guts. There appears to be at least one trick to this, but my hint is to fill the oil filter and then wait a while. Then fill it again (the oil soaks into the filter medium and the level decreases) and again until it really is brimmed. Then I got under the car with the new filter and an oil filter wrench and attacked the old filter. Oil filters are supposed to be on finger tight, but the reason they sell these filter wrenches is because they must tighten themselves a bit with use, or there are some massively strong mechanics in the world who just wander about various garages giving oil filters a tweak here and there - I dunno. Anyway, I got the old one to a stage where I could easily spin it by hand by using the wrench, positioned my oil tray and span the filter off. I immediately grabbed the new filter and span it on swearing at it all the time because it didn't seem to want to engage the thread at first go.
I then grabbed the Mobil 1 (which is what TVR reccommend - I can't see it mattering too much on this engine - there's not much special about it) and filled up to the top mark on the dipstick. On starting up, oil gauge got off the stop immediately, so sighs of relief all round for me.
Onto the gearbox. Gearbox on my Chimaera is a Borg Warner T5. TVR did use another gearbox on the earlier models (LT77 perhaps?) which is not as good. The T5 on the Chimeara I have also is used on the Sierra Cosworth and the Ford Mustang (on this behind the Windsor 302 V8). Unlike some other Ford gearboxes (like the Type 9, which is pretty ubiquitous in RWD fords, and so in Kit Cars and various specials) it has a drain plug and a filler plug. The reccomended fluid for this is a good quality ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Now here again I'm glad I'm not on the forum. I saw an oil thread regarding this gearbox where the argument when to and fro (why put automatic transmission oil in a manual gearbox? Because that's what the maker says to do.. etc. etc.) and I must admit, it seems like it's a bit of a bodge using ATF, but BW say to use it, and they designed the box. Ah well. So I decided to use Redline Superlight Shockproof - this stuff. Ordered it up - it's bloody expensive, so it better be good! I drained the gearbox of the old ATF. It was very clean, suggesting that either the car's had an easy life (usually there is some browny tinge to ATF or other discolouration, especially as you come to the dregs draining out), or it's been changed recently. In any case, my job was made possible by the use of one of these, which works pretty well overall. Got the new oil in there (which is a nasty opaque snotty yellow colour) no problem. Now I just need to hope that the forum'ers are not right and I should have used ATF!
I couldn't change the diff oil as I didn't have the right spanner. I am hoping that it is the same as the V8's sump plug - it looks like it should be, but we'll see. The Heath book says the oil should be changed in the diff every 12K miles. My car has a FSH, but we'll see when I get the old oil out how clean it looks. On this oil I took no chances - there are dire warnings about using crap oil in this diff - it's a BGR diff with LSD in it. I got this Motul Racing stuff which as you can see is stupidly expensive, but these diffs are hugely stupidly expensive! Same one as in the Cerbera too (not sure about Sagaris et al. though)
In other news I want to rip my DVDs to a disc drive on my network and then play them via my PS3. Anyone whose used iTunes (or similar) to do this for audio CDs would not believe the faffing about you need to do to get this one the go. Unbelievable. If I can be bothered and I find a halfway workable solution, I'll post up what I did on here perhaps...
I then grabbed the Mobil 1 (which is what TVR reccommend - I can't see it mattering too much on this engine - there's not much special about it) and filled up to the top mark on the dipstick. On starting up, oil gauge got off the stop immediately, so sighs of relief all round for me.
Onto the gearbox. Gearbox on my Chimaera is a Borg Warner T5. TVR did use another gearbox on the earlier models (LT77 perhaps?) which is not as good. The T5 on the Chimeara I have also is used on the Sierra Cosworth and the Ford Mustang (on this behind the Windsor 302 V8). Unlike some other Ford gearboxes (like the Type 9, which is pretty ubiquitous in RWD fords, and so in Kit Cars and various specials) it has a drain plug and a filler plug. The reccomended fluid for this is a good quality ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Now here again I'm glad I'm not on the forum. I saw an oil thread regarding this gearbox where the argument when to and fro (why put automatic transmission oil in a manual gearbox? Because that's what the maker says to do.. etc. etc.) and I must admit, it seems like it's a bit of a bodge using ATF, but BW say to use it, and they designed the box. Ah well. So I decided to use Redline Superlight Shockproof - this stuff. Ordered it up - it's bloody expensive, so it better be good! I drained the gearbox of the old ATF. It was very clean, suggesting that either the car's had an easy life (usually there is some browny tinge to ATF or other discolouration, especially as you come to the dregs draining out), or it's been changed recently. In any case, my job was made possible by the use of one of these, which works pretty well overall. Got the new oil in there (which is a nasty opaque snotty yellow colour) no problem. Now I just need to hope that the forum'ers are not right and I should have used ATF!
I couldn't change the diff oil as I didn't have the right spanner. I am hoping that it is the same as the V8's sump plug - it looks like it should be, but we'll see. The Heath book says the oil should be changed in the diff every 12K miles. My car has a FSH, but we'll see when I get the old oil out how clean it looks. On this oil I took no chances - there are dire warnings about using crap oil in this diff - it's a BGR diff with LSD in it. I got this Motul Racing stuff which as you can see is stupidly expensive, but these diffs are hugely stupidly expensive! Same one as in the Cerbera too (not sure about Sagaris et al. though)
In other news I want to rip my DVDs to a disc drive on my network and then play them via my PS3. Anyone whose used iTunes (or similar) to do this for audio CDs would not believe the faffing about you need to do to get this one the go. Unbelievable. If I can be bothered and I find a halfway workable solution, I'll post up what I did on here perhaps...
Tuesday, 26 April 2011
Engine out
Ha. Got you going. I just thought I'd use this spot to crystallise a post from the Pistonheads TVR Chimaera forum (dammit - again I have to eat my words about it being useless!). The post is this one but as the poster (who is a well respected Rover V8 engine builder) didn't put much white space or punctuation, I thought that I'd add it in here:
Rob Robertson's (v8racing) 30 Step Guide to TVR Chimaera Engine Removal.
1. Drain the water from the bottom hose on the rad.
2. Take out the second bolt down on the nearside of the waterpump, 11mm on serp 13mm on pre serp, this will drain down all the water except the block.
3. Take off the plenum, 6mm hex key, 24mm for throttle cable, flat blade screwdriver for jubilee clips.
4. Disconnect the battery.
5. Next crack the 3 10mm bolts on the power steering pump, a good 10mm spanner a little tap with a hammer should do this, then a 15mm spanner to remove the belt
6. Remove alternator using 10mm socket and 13mm spanner, once it is loose you can take the wires off the back of it, underneath the black cover, (assuming it is a serp) 13mm socket and 10mm socket, lift away alternator
7. Remove belt tensioner 13mm socket,
8. Remove alternator bracket using 13mm socket.
9. Now there should be easy acces to remove bottom hose, and the hidden 13mm earth strap bolt.
10. Next is power steering pump pulley which you have already loosened in step 5. This is a bit of a fiddle but pulley will come out.
11. Removing cross member next, 17mm socket and spanner, leave the water tower on it as the power sterring pulley is removed you can wriggle it out complete.
12. The two exhaust clamps should be removed now. Using 10mm socket, take the nut completely off, tap the clamp on its edge with a chisel you will see the clamps have 3 bits to them, tap the chisel at the start of each part and it will spring off!
13. Under the power steering pump you will see the exhaust is attacthed to the block with a 13mm bolt; remove this, undo the exhaust 'Y' piece to system 'U' clamp using a 13mm spanner.
14. Wriggle the 'Y' piece and remove it.
16. On to the distributor: 9/16 spanner for the clamp bolt remove this and just pull!
17. Inlet manifold. Remove all wires to injectors etc, 13mm spanner for all the bolts, and screwdriver for fuel lines water pipes etc.
18. Next is the removal of 2 top bellhousing bolts using 9/16 spanner
19. Now the engine mount bolts, these are the rubbers to mounts 17mm nuts.
You are now done on top and need to jack the car up.
Working underneath:
20. First thing is the 13mm bolts for the slave cylinder, get a cable tie ready for this though as the piston can pop out, just wrap the cable tie around the bolt holes to hold piston in.
21. Next is the clutch "st" plate normally 8mm socket and spanner and 13 mm socket.
22. Remove the 13mm nut holding the starter leads on to the starter.
23. Using a pair of pliers, open up where the 100amp fuse is, get a 8mm socket and remove the front 8mm nut.
24. Onto the row of bellhousing bolts, 3 now left either side, use a 9/16 socket with a long extension
25. The remaining engine mounting mounting nuts need removing now 2 x 17mm nut and bolts, remove the nuts but leave the bolts in.
26. Take the oil filter off.
Now the engine is ready to be pulled out.
27. Making sure you have a jack taking the weight of the gearbox (you may need to in some cases pry the box off the engine) using a crane, take the weight of the engine and remove the 17mm engine bolts, lift/move the engine up around until you can take the rubber engine mounts off, DO NOT lift anymore than needed or you will crush the fuel lines across the top of the bellhousing.
28. Once the rubbers are removed you can pull the engine forward off the gearbox.
All these steps should be slow and careful just in case things are still connected!
29. Lift the engine and pull forward at the same time.
30. Finally (as is a pain in the arse to do in the car) remove the earth strap on the back of the nearside head using a 13mm spanner.
The engine should now be out!
Rob Robertson's (v8racing) 30 Step Guide to TVR Chimaera Engine Removal.
1. Drain the water from the bottom hose on the rad.
2. Take out the second bolt down on the nearside of the waterpump, 11mm on serp 13mm on pre serp, this will drain down all the water except the block.
3. Take off the plenum, 6mm hex key, 24mm for throttle cable, flat blade screwdriver for jubilee clips.
4. Disconnect the battery.
5. Next crack the 3 10mm bolts on the power steering pump, a good 10mm spanner a little tap with a hammer should do this, then a 15mm spanner to remove the belt
6. Remove alternator using 10mm socket and 13mm spanner, once it is loose you can take the wires off the back of it, underneath the black cover, (assuming it is a serp) 13mm socket and 10mm socket, lift away alternator
7. Remove belt tensioner 13mm socket,
8. Remove alternator bracket using 13mm socket.
9. Now there should be easy acces to remove bottom hose, and the hidden 13mm earth strap bolt.
10. Next is power steering pump pulley which you have already loosened in step 5. This is a bit of a fiddle but pulley will come out.
11. Removing cross member next, 17mm socket and spanner, leave the water tower on it as the power sterring pulley is removed you can wriggle it out complete.
12. The two exhaust clamps should be removed now. Using 10mm socket, take the nut completely off, tap the clamp on its edge with a chisel you will see the clamps have 3 bits to them, tap the chisel at the start of each part and it will spring off!
13. Under the power steering pump you will see the exhaust is attacthed to the block with a 13mm bolt; remove this, undo the exhaust 'Y' piece to system 'U' clamp using a 13mm spanner.
14. Wriggle the 'Y' piece and remove it.
16. On to the distributor: 9/16 spanner for the clamp bolt remove this and just pull!
17. Inlet manifold. Remove all wires to injectors etc, 13mm spanner for all the bolts, and screwdriver for fuel lines water pipes etc.
18. Next is the removal of 2 top bellhousing bolts using 9/16 spanner
19. Now the engine mount bolts, these are the rubbers to mounts 17mm nuts.
You are now done on top and need to jack the car up.
Working underneath:
20. First thing is the 13mm bolts for the slave cylinder, get a cable tie ready for this though as the piston can pop out, just wrap the cable tie around the bolt holes to hold piston in.
21. Next is the clutch "st" plate normally 8mm socket and spanner and 13 mm socket.
22. Remove the 13mm nut holding the starter leads on to the starter.
23. Using a pair of pliers, open up where the 100amp fuse is, get a 8mm socket and remove the front 8mm nut.
24. Onto the row of bellhousing bolts, 3 now left either side, use a 9/16 socket with a long extension
25. The remaining engine mounting mounting nuts need removing now 2 x 17mm nut and bolts, remove the nuts but leave the bolts in.
26. Take the oil filter off.
Now the engine is ready to be pulled out.
27. Making sure you have a jack taking the weight of the gearbox (you may need to in some cases pry the box off the engine) using a crane, take the weight of the engine and remove the 17mm engine bolts, lift/move the engine up around until you can take the rubber engine mounts off, DO NOT lift anymore than needed or you will crush the fuel lines across the top of the bellhousing.
28. Once the rubbers are removed you can pull the engine forward off the gearbox.
All these steps should be slow and careful just in case things are still connected!
29. Lift the engine and pull forward at the same time.
30. Finally (as is a pain in the arse to do in the car) remove the earth strap on the back of the nearside head using a 13mm spanner.
The engine should now be out!
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